by Rory Church
•
17 July 2020
One of the great things about Crackerdash is that whilst the game stays the same, the cheese and condiments will vary. So there is always something new to experience! Consequently we naturally move along the line of cheese exploration. Starting with supermarkets (nothing wrong here), moving to online orders, visiting delis and local markets, through to full on food tours, tasting sessions and specialist cheese mongers. On this occasion we were keeping our cheese expedition local, visiting the farmer’s market in Petersfield, Hampshire. It would be fair to say that in the same way a wine has a “Terroir” associating taste with the local environmental factors, Cheese is subject to the same conditions. Along with accounting for all the dark arts of cheese making the cheese maker also has to contend with their environment. Different livestock will produce widely different milk yields, with very different structures and fat content. The quality of milk will depend on the landscape, how lush or dry the pasture is, what grazing is available amongst other factors, all of which can determine what cheese can (or cannot) be made locally. So local markets are a great way to get an insight into the agricultural strengths of the region. As an aside, it does seem unfair that the term for a cheese maker is simply “cheese maker!” If you specialise in the sale of cheese you’re a Cheese Monger, if you age the cheese you’re an “Affineur.” Surely taking everything into account above the cheese maker is deserving of a far more grandiose title… Magician, Mage, Artiste de Cheese… who knows! Whilst our sights were set on artisan cheeses and condiments we were soon weighed down by numerous other products. Smoked trout pate, venison bacon, specialty sausages and pork pies, the list goes on. Sarah, my wife and fellow Crackerdash Director, observing the increasing size of my shopping bag complained, “we’ll never get through all that!” Which just goes to show that after more than 25 years of marriage she still underestimates my capabilities. It is quite easy to spend money at a farmer’s market. As a shopping experience it is great to be able to talk directly with artisan producers, understand the provenance of the food and support some of those businesses that have been most affected by the recent lockdown. So I felt fully justified in adding a pack of venison kebabs to my haul and moving on along the smorgasbord of stalls. Our first cheese discovery was the Sussex Charmer, and what a discovery! The stall was manned by the equally charming Angus Fraser who led us through the cheese and butter on display. The Sussex Charmer originated when two family farms, one producing cheddar (The Harrison family) and one producing an Italian style hard cheese (The Bookham family) combined their cheese making talents to produce the Sussex Charmer. This unique product has gone on to win Gold at the International Cheese Awards no less than 8 times in recent years! Following our game of Crackerdash later in the day, there was a little “Charmer” left over, which I was looking forward to. I discovered though, that an unnamed person with lactose intolerance had weighed up the great taste of the Sussex Charmer against the downside of intolerance and decided taste won the day. They had noshed the remainder ahead of me! So alongside all the awards that this cheese has accrued it can be said that the great taste of the Sussex Charmer literally “trumps” lactose intolerance… no small accolade. Aside from the Sussex Charmer we also came away with Bookham and Harrisons’ “Twineham Grange.” This is an Italian Style hard cheese that is suitable for vegetarians. Having used it to replace the Parmesan in a Carbonara it ticked all the boxes, and it’s great to see a local UK provider producing such a fantastic alternative, we’ll be back for more! Our next cheese stop was with Beau farms who hail from Tadley in Hampshire. They specialise in goats cheese, producing a range consisting of Brie, Soft Cheese and award winning Gouda. Having kept goats in the past Sarah was quickly enjoying a discussion about Saanens, Anglo Nubians and her history with goats. Sadly we arrived late in the day and all the soft cheese had been sold - always the best form of quality assurance! We left with a plain Gouda (nothing plain about it!) and a version with some chilli added which was enough to give a nice tingle, but not have one rushing for a glass of milk. Both cheeses were excellent and we’ll be back (early in the day) to ensure we procure some of the soft cheese and Brie next time. Sadly I forgot to ask the goats cheese question that has been bugging me for some time. I’ve been told that the strong goaty taste in cheese, that some people find unpleasant occurs when a Billy goat has been kept with the herd. This affects the hormones and consequently the milk. I’ve also been informed that the harder the cheese is worked during the processing phase the stronger the goat flavour is produced in the cheese. Perhaps both are valid, but if you know the science please do drop me a line! You can find more info on Bookham and Harrison Farms here: https://www.bookhamharrison.co.uk More info on Beau Farm and their goats cheese is at: https://beaufarm.co.uk/ And watch out for news and updates from Angus Fraser’s Local Food and drink Tours; https://www.facebook.com/localfoodanddrinktours